Hitting the open road in a motorhome is one of the most freeing ways to travel, but parking that big rig every time you need a gallon of milk is anything but convenient. That’s where flat towing comes in. Also called dinghy towing or four-down towing, flat towing lets you pull a smaller vehicle behind your RV with all four wheels on the ground, giving you a daily driver the moment you set up camp.
Whether you are a seasoned full-timer or planning your first cross-country trip, getting the setup right matters. The wrong vehicle, the wrong equipment, or skipped maintenance can lead to expensive transmission damage and unsafe driving conditions. If you are still shopping for the right rig to start your journey, the best RV Dealers in Texas like Vogt RV in Fort Worth carry Class A diesel pushers, Class B touring coaches, and Class C motorhomes built with the towing capacity needed for serious dinghy towing. This complete guide will walk you through everything you need to know to flat tow safely, legally, and confidently.
What Is Flat Towing and How Does It Work
Flat towing is the practice of pulling a vehicle directly behind a motorhome with all four wheels rolling on the pavement. The towed vehicle, often called a “toad” or “dinghy,” is connected to the RV using a tow bar attached to a baseplate on the front of the car.
Unlike dolly towing, where the front wheels sit on a small two-wheel trailer, or full trailer towing where every wheel is off the ground, flat towing requires no bulky equipment to haul or store at the campground. The towed car simply trails smoothly behind the motorhome.
Why Flat Towing Is So Popular
RVers love this method for a few clear reasons:
- Quick setup and breakdown at every stop
- No trailer or dolly to park and store at your campsite
- Lower fuel impact than pulling an enclosed trailer
- Easier maneuvering than a long combination with a trailer
The trade-off is that not every car can do it, and the equipment you need is specific.
Can Every Vehicle Be Flat Towed
The short answer is no. The longer answer depends on your vehicle’s transmission, drivetrain, and engineering. Trying to flat tow the wrong vehicle can destroy your transmission in a single trip.
To be flat towable, a car needs the ability to put its drivetrain into a true neutral state, where the wheels can spin freely without forcing internal transmission components to rotate without lubrication.
Drivetrain Types and Towability
Here is a quick breakdown of how different drivetrains handle flat towing:
- Manual transmissions: Generally the easiest to flat tow because shifting to neutral disconnects the engine from the wheels.
- Automatic transmissions: Most cannot be flat towed because they need the engine running to circulate transmission fluid. Some specific models are factory-approved.
- 4WD with manual transfer case: Many can be flat towed because the transfer case can be shifted to neutral, disconnecting the driveshaft.
- CVT transmissions: Cannot be flat towed. The driveshaft will keep turning and damage the transmission.
- Electric vehicles: Generally cannot be flat towed because the electric motors stay connected to the wheels, which can damage the motors.
Always Check the Owner’s Manual
Before you flat tow anything, find the recreational towing section in your owner’s manual. If a vehicle is approved, the manual will spell out the exact procedure under headings like “Recreational Towing,” “Dinghy Towing,” or “Towing Behind a Motorhome.” If those instructions are not there, the vehicle is likely not approved.
Skipping manufacturer guidelines can lead to severe drivetrain or transmission damage and may void your warranty. Towability can also change from year to year within the same model, so always verify with the most recent owner’s manual.
Most Popular Flat Tow Vehicles
Some vehicles have earned reputations as reliable, easy-to-tow choices for RVers. Here are a few that consistently come up:
- Jeep Wrangler: A long-time favorite. Factory approved with manual or automatic transmission, ready for off-road exploring once you unhook.
- Ford F-150: When equipped with 4WD and a neutral-ready transfer case, it is one of the most popular pickups for flat towing.
- Chevy Colorado: A common choice among RVers who want a truck bed for hauling gear.
- Ford Bronco: A modern off-road option approved for flat towing in select configurations.
- Compact cars like the Chevy Sonic or Ford Focus: Lightweight, fuel-friendly, and an affordable secondary vehicle.
The Jeep Wrangler is particularly popular because it is factory approved and adds off-road capability to your trip.
Understanding Your Motorhome’s Tow Rating
Before you pick a toad, you need to understand how much weight your motorhome can pull. Every motorhome has a tow rating listed in its specifications, and it can range from a couple thousand pounds up to 10,000 pounds or more depending on the type.
Class C motorhomes often have tow ratings up to around 8,000 pounds in newer models, while Class A diesel pushers and Super Cs can be rated for 10,000 pounds and well beyond.
Calculating Your Real Towing Capacity
Your toad’s curb weight is just the starting point. You also need to account for:
- Cargo or tools stored inside the toad
- The weight of the tow bar (typically 80 to 120 pounds)
- The baseplate (about 30 to 50 pounds)
- The supplemental braking system (around 15 to 25 pounds)
The total towed weight must stay under your motorhome’s tow rating with a safety margin built in. A Class C with a 5,000 pound tow rating pulling a 2,500 pound car still leaves room for accessories and measurement variation.
Essential Flat Towing Equipment
A safe flat tow setup is built from several specific pieces of equipment. You cannot skip any of them.
The Tow Bar
The tow bar is the arm-like device that connects the RV’s hitch to the baseplate on your toad. Its job is to transfer pulling force from the motorhome to the towed vehicle so the car follows smoothly. Most modern tow bars are RV-mounted, meaning they store on the back of the motorhome when not in use.
The Baseplate
The baseplate mounts to the chassis of the towed vehicle and provides the connection points for the tow bar. Baseplates come in two main styles:
- Quick-disconnect: Arms terminate in flat connection surfaces.
- Direct-connect: Arms terminate with tabs that receive the tow bar lugs.
Safety Cables
Safety cables provide a backup connection between the motorhome and the toad, keeping the vehicles linked if the tow bar fails.
Lighting and Wiring
Your toad must display the same brake, turn, and running lights as the motorhome. This typically means a wired connection between the two. Motorhomes commonly have a 7-pin connector while many cars use a 6-pin connection, so a 7-to-6 pin cable is often needed.
Supplemental Braking System
A supplemental brake system, also called an auxiliary brake, applies your toad’s brakes at the same time the motorhome brakes. This dramatically reduces stopping distance and helps prevent jackknifing. It comes in two main styles:
- Installed systems: Permanently mounted under the hood, often with a cable through the firewall that pulls on the brake pedal. Examples include the Roadmaster InvisiBrake.
- Portable systems: A box that sits on the floorboard of the driver’s seat and pushes the brake pedal during stops.
Breakaway System
A breakaway system is an emergency device that activates the toad’s brakes if it ever separates from the motorhome.
Are Supplemental Brakes Required by Law
Yes, in most places. Supplemental braking systems are required in 49 of 50 states and all Canadian provinces for towed vehicles over a certain weight. Kentucky is the only U.S. state without specific trailer brake weight requirements, although combination vehicles must still meet statutory stopping distances.
State Weight Thresholds Vary
Weight limits range widely from one state to another:
- California: 1,500 pounds
- Texas: 4,500 pounds
- New Mexico: 3,000 pounds
- Michigan: 15,000 pounds
The most common threshold is 3,000 pounds. Because state laws change frequently, always verify current rules with your state DMV and every state you plan to travel through.
Even where they are not legally required, a supplemental brake system is essential for safety. Without one, panic stops can overwhelm the motorhome’s brakes and lead to a jackknife situation.
Estimated Cost of a Flat Tow Setup
Putting together a flat tow system is a real investment, but it pays off in convenience and safety over many trips.
A complete setup including tow bar, baseplate, wiring, and a supplemental braking system typically costs between $1,500 and $2,500. The range depends on whether you install everything yourself or pay a professional.
Installation of the baseplate, wiring harness, and braking system often requires a shop because they involve drilling, electrical work, and proper integration with the toad’s brake system.
How to Hook Up Your Toad
Once your equipment is installed, the daily hookup process becomes routine. Here are the basic steps most setups follow:
- Position the toad behind the motorhome with both vehicles roughly aligned.
- Connect the tow bar to the baseplate on the toad.
- Attach the safety cables in a crisscross pattern under the tow bar.
- Plug in the lighting harness so brake and turn signals work.
- Connect the supplemental braking system and breakaway cable.
- Prepare the toad following the owner’s manual. This usually means putting the transmission in neutral, the transfer case in neutral if applicable, the key in the proper accessory position, and disconnecting the negative battery terminal if required.
- Test everything before pulling out. Walk around and confirm lights, brakes, and connections.
For one specific example, the 2019 Chevy Colorado owner’s manual instructs owners to leave the key in the ignition during dinghy towing while locking the doors with the driver’s door open before disconnecting the battery.
Critical Rules to Follow While Flat Towing
A few hard rules apply no matter what you are towing.
Never Back Up
You should never reverse while flat towing. Backing up can damage the tow bar, the toad, and the RV. Even if you try to back up perfectly straight, misalignment can cause expensive damage. If you need to back up, disconnect the toad first.
Watch Your Speed
Most manufacturers recommend a maximum speed of 65 mph when flat towing. Some manuals also limit how many miles you can flat tow continuously before stopping to let components cool.
Disconnect the Battery When Required
Some vehicles require disconnecting the negative battery terminal to prevent the toad’s battery from draining during long tow days.
Test Before Every Trip
Before the first trip after any setup change, test everything in your driveway. Connect the tow bar, confirm safety cables and the supplemental brake, check that the charge line powers the toad’s battery, and drive at 25 to 35 mph in your neighborhood to listen for vibrations or noises before going to highway speeds.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced RVers slip up. Watch for these common errors:
- Flat towing a vehicle that is not approved for it, often based on outdated information from older model years.
- Skipping the supplemental brake because the state law allows it. Safety still demands one.
- Forgetting to disconnect the battery on vehicles that require it, which leads to a dead toad on arrival.
- Reversing the motorhome with the toad still connected.
- Exceeding the speed limit recommended by the manufacturer.
- Failing to verify weight including cargo, gear, and accessories.
Maintenance and Long-Term Care
Flat towing puts wear on both your motorhome and your toad. Routine care keeps things safe.
Inspect your tow bar, baseplate, safety cables, and wiring before each trip. Look for cracks, frayed cables, loose bolts, and damaged pins. Lubricate moving parts on the tow bar according to the manufacturer’s schedule. Test the supplemental brake’s connection and adjust pressure settings as needed.
Many RVers also rotate the tires on their toad more often because flat towing adds miles without engine use, which changes wear patterns slightly compared to normal driving.
Final Thoughts
Flat towing is one of the most convenient ways to bring a daily driver along on your RV adventures. With the right vehicle, the right equipment, and a careful approach to the rules of the road, you can unhook a ready-to-drive car at every stop without the hassle of trailers or dollies.
The keys are simple. Confirm your vehicle is approved for flat towing in its owner’s manual. Match the toad’s weight to your motorhome’s tow rating. Invest in quality equipment from a reputable manufacturer. Use a supplemental braking system every time, no matter what your state requires. And never, ever back up.
Do those things, and flat towing will give you years of relaxed travel and the freedom to explore everywhere your motorhome takes you, plus everywhere it cannot.
